
|
African Journal of Biotechnology
Academic Journals
ISSN: 1684-5315
Vol. 4, Num. 1, 2005, pp. 36-44
|
African Journal of Biotechnology, Vol. 4, No. 1, January 2005, pp. 36-44
Full Length Research Paper
Taxonomic perspective of
plant species yielding vegetable oils used in cosmetics and skin care products
Mohammad Athar1*and Syed Mahmood Nasir2
1California Department of Food and Agriculture, 2014
Capitol Avenue, Suite 109, Sacramento, CA 95814, USA.
2Ministry of Environment, Capitol Development
Authority, Block IV, Islamabad, PAKISTAN.
*Corresponding author. E-Mail :
atariq@cdfa.ca.gov.
Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are those of authors
and do not necessarily represent those of their respective departments of affiliations.
The publication of this article does not constitute a recommendation or endorsement
of the products mentioned. The authors or the departments make no warranty,
expressed or implied, and assume no legal liability for the use of these vegetable
oils.
Accepted 17 November, 2004
Code Number: jb05007
ABSTRACT
A search conducted to determine the plants yielding vegetable
oils resulted in 78 plant species with potential use in cosmetics and skin care
products. The taxonomic position of these plant species is described with a
description of vegetable oils from these plants and their use in cosmetics and
skin care products. These species belonged to 74 genera and 45 plant families
and yielded 79 vegetable oils. Family Rosaceae had highest number of vegetable
oil yielding species (five species). Most of the species were distributed in
two families (Anacardiaceae and Asteraceae) containing four species each,
followed by seven families (Boraginaceae, Brassicaceae, Clausiaceae, Cucurbitaceae,
Euphorbiaceae, Fabaceae and Lamaceae) containing three species each of oil
yielding plants. Five families (Apiaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Malvaceae, Rubiaceae
and Sapotaceae) have two species each of vegetable oil yielding plants. Two
monocotyledonous families Arecaceae and Poaceae contained three species each of
oil yielding plants. Remaining 28 vegetable oil yielding species were
distributed in 28 plant families, which included two species of gymnosperms
distributed in family Cupressaceae and Pinaceae. These vegetable oils are
natural and can be used as the base for mixing ones own aromatherapy massage or
bath oil, or if preferred can be used as ready blended massage oils or bath
oils. Apart from their medicinal value, vegetable oils have heat contents
approximately 90% that of diesel fuel and are potential alternate fuel
candidates. By combining the skills and efforts of
biologists, food scientists, plant breeders and oil companies it may be
possible to develop reasonably priced vegetable oils with enhanced levels of
functional ingredients. With growing trend of using vegetable oils in food
preparation and body and skin care, the health benefits in reducing heart
disease and body and skin ailments could be substantial.
Key words: Taxonomy, vegetable oils, uses, cosmetics,
skin care products.
INTRODUCTION
Many
species of plants produce seeds containing fats which are used as a food
reserve for the developing seedling and they are quite often present in
sufficient quantities to make their extraction, in the form of oil,
worthwhile. Vegetable oils are produced from nuts, seeds, grains and beans. They
are sometimes referred to as fixed oils because they are not as volatile
(easily evaporated) as essential oils. Vegetable oils have a wide range of
uses, and whilst many of these involve processes that are too technical for
small scale ventures, there are still many ways in which we can employ them as
a food or as a lubricant, a fuel for paraffin lamps and as a wood preservative
(Goldberg and Williams, 1999; Gunstone, 2002). Some of them also have
medicinal properties and make an excellent base in which to dilute essential
oils for body and skin care products (Riechart, 2002).
Many
components naturally present in vegetable oils have been shown to have
beneficial properties. Once isolated and concentrated, a number of these
compounds have proven effective in treating a wide range of conditions ranging
from irritable bowel syndrome to chronic liver disease (De Deckere and Verschuren, 2000; Foster and Duke,
1990; Moerman, 1986, 1991, 1996; Okuyama, 1992; Riechart,
2002; Said,
1969; Shaheen et al., 2003). Similarly, many of the fatty acids and other
compounds present in vegetable oils have long been known to benefit our
health. There is clearly great potential for developing functional vegetable
oils (De Deckere and Verschuren, 2000; Riechart, 2002; William
and Ahmad, 1999).
Classification
of medicinal plants is organized in different ways depending on the criteria
used. In general, medicinal plants are arranged according to their active
principles in their storage organs of plants, particularly roots, leaves,
flowers, seeds and other parts of plant (Athar and Siddiqi, 2004; Foster and
Duke, 1990; Moerman, 1986, 1991, 1996). These
principles are valuable to mankind in the treatment of diseases (Duke, 1997; Shaheen
et al., 2003). Reports on the classification of many plant species yielding
vegetable oils used in cosmetics and body and skin care preparations are
sporadic or lacking (Gunstone, 2002; Riechart
2002). Athar and Siddiqi (2004) described the taxonomy, distribution and
flowering period of some of the medicinal flowers of Pakistan. This paper
describes the taxonomy of plants yielding vegetable oils and summarizes main
constituents of various vegetable oils and use of these oils for various skin
problems.
MATERIALS
AND METHODS
This study is based on extensive on line and library
search, study through MEDLINE of research papers, review articles and book
reports to find out plants species yielding vegetable oils used in cosmetics
and body and skin care products (Athar and Siddiqi, 2004; Boercher et al.,
2000; De Deckere and Verschuren, 2000, Duke,
1997; Foster and Duke, 1990; Goldberg and Williams, 1999; Gunstone, 2002; Huang
and Needham, 2001; Moerman, 1986, 1991, 1996; Riechart,
2002;Said, 1969; Shaheen et al., 2003;
William and Ahmad, 1999). A list of plants yielding vegetable oils was
prepared and their taxonomic position determined (Table 1). The nomenclature
and classification followed Bailey and Bailey (1976) and
author citations followed Brummitt and Powell (1992). The genera were arranged
alphabetically within families. The scientific names of the plants and common
names of vegetable oils are provided. The table also summarizes the ailments,
main constituents of various vegetable oils and principal method of
application. The table does not rank the order of the species importance as
a
medicinal source for various skin problems.
Table 1. Taxonomy of plant species yielding vegetable
oils used in cosmetics and skin care products.
|
Species
|
Vegetable Oil
|
Cosmetic and skin care uses
|
|
GYMNOSPERMS
|
|
Cupressaceae
|
|
Juniperus communis L.
|
Juniper Berry Oil
|
Juniper berry oil has a warm, woody, peppery, pine smell that is uplifting
and strengthening. Used by Native Americans to purify the air, it
is highly anti-septic. Juniper berry oil can be used as an astringent
for the skin and hair and in anti-cellulite massage blends.
|
| Pinaceae |
|
|
|
Pinus pinea L.
|
Pine Nut Oil
|
A Mediterranean delicacy, the edible seeds are known as pignons or pinocchi and
they yield a novel moisturizing oil.
|
|
ANGIOSPERMS
|
|
MONOCOTYLEDONS
|
|
Arecaceae (Palmae)
|
|
Cocos nucifera L.
|
Coconut Oil
|
A traditional and trusted moisturizing and protective oil from the
tropics. One of the most respected oils found in the British Pharmacopoeia.
|
|
Orbignya oleifera Burret= Attalea speciosa Mart.ex Spreng.
|
Babassu Oil
|
Originating from the Brazilian rainforest, this oil is reported to
be non-comedogenic. It leaves the skin with a soft, lustrous smoothness.
|
|
Elaeis guineensis Jacq.
|
Palm Oil
|
Palm is considered the tallow of vegetable soaps, it lends hardness
and smooth creamy bubbles to soap. Palm oil is also used in the manufacture
of soaps, detergents and other surfactants. It's hard to find a soap
recipe that doesn't include palm oil.
|
|
Poaceae (Graminae)
|
|
Oryza sativa L.
|
Rice Bran Oil
|
A moisturizing oil, rich in gamma oryzanol.
|
|
Triticum vulgare Vill. = Triticum aestivum L.
subsp. aestivum
|
Wheatgerm Oil
|
Contains one of the highest levels of natural vitamin E and is a valuable
additive to any skin care product where care and protection of the
skin is important.
|
|
Zea mays L.
|
Corn Oil
|
Corn oil is mostly used in frying and cooking the food. It is emollient
and skin lubricant.
|
|
DICOTYLEDONS
|
|
Actinidiaceae
|
|
Actinidia chinensis Planch.
|
Kiwi Seed Oil
|
An oil rich in vitamin E, the Kiwi or Chinese gooseberry, grown in
New Zealand, is a significant source of skin nutrition and protection.
|
| Anacardiaceae |
|
|
|
Anacardium occidentale L.
|
Cashew Nut Oil
|
An lubricious oil rich in proteins, that can be used wherever a skin
nourishing effect is needed.
|
|
Mangifera indica L.
|
Mango Seed Oil
|
This oil from Asia is a greatly respected emollient that is often
used as a cocoa butter replacement.
|
|
Pistacia vera L.
|
Pistachio Nut Oil
|
An oil that is substantive and protective to the harshest of external
conditions. Compares favorably with peanut oil.
|
|
Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich) J.O. Hochst.
|
Marula Oil
|
An oil from the fruit of a tree much revered by the indigenous people
of Southern Africa, who extract the oil themselves for cracked, dry
or damaged skin. It is a prized cosmetic oil for both skin and hair,
being similar to olive oil in composition.
|
|
Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)
|
|
Coriandrum sativum L.
|
Coriander Oil
|
As the coriander oil stimulates circulation, it is helpful in cellulite,
effective in relieving facial neuralgia and helps to fight fungal infections. Also
useful for arthritis, broken capillaries, dandruff, eczema, muscular
aches and pains, rheumatism, spasms, stiffness and sweaty feet
|
|
Daucus carota L.
|
Carrot Oil
|
A source of beta-carotene and provitamin A natural color and skin
nutrient. Often used in sun care products.
|
|
Asteraceae (Compositae)
|
|
Artemisia sphaerocephala Krasch.
|
Artemisia Oil
|
This oil comes from a family that includes Mugwort, Chinese Wormwood,
Davana and Absinthe. The Artemisia family shares the common feature
of being beneficial to the skin, especially to keep it clear of infection
and improve wound healing.
|
|
Calendula officinalis L.
|
Marigold Oil
|
An oil that would be in any herbalists arsenal for the care of bruised
or damaged skin. Especially good for chapped or roughened skin. Also
traditionally used for the care of varicose veins.
|
|
Carthamus tinctorius L.
|
Safflower Oil
|
Safflower oil is mentioned in ancient Egyptian texts and was used
to heal old wounds. It has an exceptionally high linoleic acid content
and is an excellent choice for the replenishment of moisture in skin
crèmes and lotions.
|
|
Helianthus annuus L.
|
Sunflower Oil
|
A simple yet cost-effective emollient oil, well tried and tested for
generations in a wide variety of emulsions formulated for face and
body products.
|
|
Berseraceae
|
|
Canarium spp.
|
Ngali Oil
|
A precious oil is extracted from this exotic tree (which also provides
a valuable resin) for use as a local remedy for dry skin.
|
|
Betulaceae
|
|
Corylus americanaMarshall
|
Hazelnut Oil
|
Hazelnut oil contains phospholipids which give greater and longer-lasting
moisturizing potential to cosmetic emulsions.
|
|
Bombaceae
|
|
Adansonia digitata L.
|
Baobab Oil
|
An African tree steeped in mystery, legend and religious significance. The
fruit provides an exquisite oil that is a rich and substantive moisturizer.
|
|
Boraginaceae
|
|
Borago officinalis L.
|
Borage (Starflower) Oil
|
Another rich plant source of GLA. Excellent moisturizer in skin care. A
prized oil for its abundant food, health, cosmetic and medicinal benefits.
|
|
Lithospermum erythrorhizon Siebold & Zucc.
|
Shikonin Seed Oil
|
Known by the Chinese name Zi Cao or in English as Gromwell, this material
shows clinical anti-inflammatory activity and is used in traditional
Chinese medicine for the treatment of burns, sores, eczema and scalds. It
has also been shown to increase the growth of epithelial cells.
|
|
Trichodesma zeylanicum (Burm. f.) R. Br.
|
Wild Borage Oil
|
This oil is not totally unrelated to our borage (Borago officinalis L.)
since it is from the same family. It originates from Tanzania, where
it is used for its emollient and soothing properties. It may also
be found in Pakistan, where it is used for similar purposes.
|
|
Brassicaceae (Cruciferae)
|
|
Brassica compestris L.
|
Canola (rapeseed)
|
Canola (rapeseed) is mostly used in frying and cooking the food. It
is emollient and skin lubricant.
|
|
Camelina sativa (L.) Crantz
|
Gold of Pleasure Oil
|
Probably introduced by the Romans, this oil has an amazing lubricity
which makes it ideal for those products where spread ability is required.
|
|
Sisymbrium irio L.
|
Sisymbrium Irio Oil
|
This seed oil was much loved by the Romans and is still used today
by the beautiful women of Asia for improvement of the complexion. It
can be used with great benefit in skin care preparations.
|
|
Buxaceae
|
|
Simmondsia chinensis (Link) C.K. Schneid.
|
Australian Golden Jajoba Oil
|
Australian golden jojoba oil is extracted from jojoba plants grown
in the vast desert areas in Australia. It is a stable oil with very
long shelf life. Similar to the skins own sebum, unrefined jojoba
oil has superior moisturizing properties. Suitable for soap making
and for creams, lotions, hair care products and body oils. Perfect
as a perfume base and for essential oil dilution.
|
|
Cannabinaceae
|
|
Cannabis sativa L.
|
Hemp Oil
|
A virtually canabinoid-free oil that rivals linseed for its richness
and high arachidonic acid content. A perfect choice for skin protection.
|
|
Clusiaceae (Guttiferae)
|
|
Calophyllum inophyllum L.
|
Tamanu oil, Foraha oil
|
The oil is obtained from dried nuts of the Tamanu tree found in the
Pacific and Asian tropical regions. Tamanu oil has hydrating and soothing
effect on the skin, relieves irritations such as sun burn, inflammation
and general rashes, and helps regenerate skin cells. Tamanu oil is
useful for the treatment of rheumatism, eczema and inflammatory skin
and helps heal cuts and wounds while acting as a germicide to prevent
infection.
|
|
Garcinia indica (Thouars) Choisy
|
Kokum Butter
|
Kokum butter is produced in India from the fruit kernels and contains
oleic acid, stearic acid and palmictic acid. It has application in
skin and hair products, acne products and skin tonics.
|
|
Pentadesma butyracea Sabine
|
Pentadesma Butter
|
An oil from fruit kernels has physical, chemical and cosmetic properties
close to shea butter. An unexpected high proportion of stigmasterol
is reported in the oil.
|
|
Cucurbitaceae
|
|
Cucurbita pepo L.
|
Pumpkin Seed Oil
|
The oil from pumpkin seeds has been used across the world as a treatment
for sores, ulcers and other skin problems. Its high sterol and vitamins
E content makes it ideal for the this purpose
|
|
Citrullus lanatus (Thumb.) Matsum & Nakai
|
Watermelon Seed Oil
|
Known since the time of ancient Egyptians, the seed oil has been used
for the care of the skin, to maintain its beauty and aid in its repair.
|
|
Telfairia pedata (Sm. ex Sims) Hook.
|
Oyster Nut oil
|
A novel oil that offers skin conditioning and protection against the
loss of precious skin hydration.
|
|
Dipterocarpaceae
|
|
Shorea robusta C.F. Gaertn.
|
Sal Butter
|
Sal butter is produced in India from the kernels of sal tree. The
butter has a composition close to that of mango butter and physical
properties close to cacao butter.
|
|
Shorea stenoptera Burck
|
Illipe Butter
|
An exotic material from the rainforests of Borneo. This rich butter
is packed with natural fatty acids, triglycerides and phytosterols
to protect and moisturize the skin by complementing its natural lipid
layer. A wonderful alternative to cocoa butter which closely resembles
it chemically.
|
|
Elaeagnaceae
|
|
Hippophae rhamnoides L.
|
Seabuckthorn Oil
|
Obtained from the maceration and extraction of the fruit into olive
or sunflower oil, this is an old and traditional remedy handed down
by generations of battling Mongols for the treatment of bruised and
battered skin. Ideal for inclusion in sports ranges.
|
|
Euphorbiaceae
|
|
Aleurites moluccanus (L.) Willd.
|
Kukui Nut Oil
|
To the Hawaiians this tree is a symbol and a legend. The oil is a
panacea for delicate, sensitive or dry skin and is pure and gentle
enough to use on a babys delicate skin.
|
|
Ricinus communis L.
|
Castor Oil
|
A very glossy oil on the skin. Used in lipsticks, lip balms and lip
salves. Also used in transparent soaps and hair grooming products.
|
|
Ricinodendron rautanenii Schinz = Schinziophyton rautanenii (Schinz.)Radcl.-Sm.
|
Manketti Nut Oil
|
The Manketti Nut or Mongogo Nut is a source of a precious edible oil
from Namibia that is rich in phytosterols and natural proteins. It
is highly prized emollient that will pamper the skin to leave it lusciously
protected.
|
|
Fabaceae (Leguminosae)
|
|
Arachis hypogaea L.
|
Peanut Oil
|
A traditional oil for use in sunscreen preparations and after-sun
oils. It is substantive and protective to the harshest of the external
conditions.
|
|
Glycine max (L.) Merr.
|
Soybean Oil
|
This plant has been known and used by the Chinese for more than 4,000
years, though today most of the oil comes from the USA. This oil is
cost-effective base on which to prepare hair and body products where
good honest moisturisation is required at a budget price.
|
|
Medicago sativa L.
|
Alfalfa Oil
|
Reported to reduce the erythema caused by sunburn. Rich in carotenes
and lutein.
|
|
Flacourtiaceae
|
|
Taraktogenos kurzil King = Hydnocarpus kurzii (King)
Warb.
|
Chaulmoogra Oil
|
An oil native to Burma and China, it is an Indian remedy for problem
skins, particularly for dry, desquamative skin conditions and sores.
|
|
Grosssulariaceae
|
|
Ribes nigrum L.
|
Blackcurrant Seed Oil
|
A rich source of GLA and a superb moisturizer which can be used in
place of evening primrose or borage seed oils.
|
| Hypericaceae |
|
|
|
Hypericum perforatum L.
|
St. Johns Wort Oil
|
An orange-red oil that takes its color from the hypercin it contains. This
oil is part of most herbalists repertoire for damaged skin, bruises
and other skin problems. Especially useful for sensitive skin products.
|
|
Juglandaceae
|
|
Juglans regia L.
|
Walnut Oil
|
Probably a native of Persia, this nut provides an emollient oil which
has been used for its efficacy on dry and damaged skin. In mythology,
white man ate the acorns the Gods ate the Walnuts.
|
|
Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
|
|
Hyptis suaveolens (L.) Poit
|
Hyptis Oil
|
A high concentration of omega-6 lipids makes hyptis oil an ideal choice
in products for dry, flaky skin.
|
|
Perilla frutescns (L.) Britton.
|
Perilla Oil
|
Known by the Chinese name of Zi Su or in English as the beefsteak
plant or Perilla, this material shows anti-septic activity and has
been shown to be effective against Propionibacterium acne responsible
for acne.
|
|
Salvia hispanica L.
|
Chia Oil
|
A rich luxuriant oil with a wonderful ancient Aztec storyline. It
contains an abundance of linolenic acid which helps to explain its
substantive feel on the skin.
|
|
Lauraceae
|
|
Persea americana Mill.
|
Avocado Butter
|
Reported to contain a complex blend of vitamins A and E and other
active materials which increases skin elasticity and encourages healthy
skin.
|
|
Persea americana Mill.
|
Avocado Oil
|
A light, fast penetrating oil that was reported to be absorbed faster
by the skin than corn, soybean, almond and olive oils.
|
| Lecythidaceae |
|
|
|
Bertholletia excelsa Bonpl.
|
Brazil Nut Oil
|
An oil rich in proteins and vitamins E and A, this precious gift from
the South American rainforest comes from the fruit (nut) of a tree
that can grow for a thousand years. Brazil nuts, or paranuts, produce
an oil that is rich emollient and a moisturizer not too dissimilar
to sesame oil.
|
|
Limnanthceae
|
|
Limnanthes alba Hartw. ex Benth.
|
Meadowfoam Seed Oil
|
An oil that is stable, non-greasy and rapidly absorbed. This oil
is ideal for those products where a soft, smooth, silky feel is required
whether it be on skin or hair.
|
|
Linaceae
|
|
Linum usitatissimum L.
|
Linseed Oil
|
An ancient cultigen widely grown in Asia and North America as a fiber
plant and as a seed crop for linseed oil. Oil is used in soaps, inks,
and in the production of linoleum. Note that the first three letters
of linoleum are lin... for linseed.
|
|
Malvaceae
|
|
Gossypium hirsutum L.
|
Cotton seed Oil
|
Cottonseed oil is mostly used in frying and cooking the food. It
enhances the fresh natural flavor of the food. It is also emollient
and skin lubricant. Another benefit of the cottonseed oil is the high
level of anti-oxidants (vitamin E).
|
|
Hibiscus cannabinus L.
|
Kenaf Oil
|
It is cultivated secondarily for the seeds which contain about 20%
oil, used for: salad, cooking, and lubricant oils. Kenaf oil is also
used in the manufacture of soap, linoleum, paints and varnishes and
for illumination.
|
|
Meliaceae
|
|
Melia azadirechta L. = Azadirechta indica A.Juss.
|
Neem Oil
|
A very aromatic oil, neem is one of Indo-Pakistans most respected
treatment for problem skin.
|
|
Oleaceae
|
|
Olea europaea L.
|
Olive Oil
|
An oil that is mentioned in the Bible and was known to the ancient
Greek and Phoenicians, who introduced it into Spain. This oil is legendary
for its safe, gentle care and treatment of the skin.
|
|
Onagraceae
|
|
Oenothera biennis L.
|
Evening Primrose Oil
|
A favorite source of GLA, this modern seed oil is a well known and
much loved moisturizer and skin nutrient.
|
|
Orchidaceae
|
|
Vanilla planifolia Jacks.
|
Orchid Oil
|
A light delicate oil that is perfect for providing a light miniaturization
to those products where the after-skin feel should be a whisper
|
|
Papaveraceae
|
|
Papaver orientale L.
|
Poppy Seed Oil
|
Containing virtually no opiates, this must be the sister to hemp oil
and could be used in any products where an interesting moisturizer
is required with an emotive story line in the pack copy.
|
|
Passifloraceae
|
|
Passiflora edulis Sims.
|
Passionflower Oil
|
A light, gentle oil with connotations of being soothing and relaxing. It
leaves a natural soft feel to the skin without being over-occlusive.
|
|
Pedaliaceae
|
|
Sesamum indicum L.
|
Sesame Oil
|
Also known as gingili oil, this oil has been known since earliest
antiquity, from ancient Egypt to the Indo-Pakistan sub-continent, as
a soothing, gentle emollient. It is an extremely good substitute to
oil and has excellent longevity in massage preparation.
|
|
Proteaceae
|
|
Macadamia ternifolia F. Muell.
|
Macadamia Nut Oil
|
An oil from the king of Nuts, this Hawaiian emollient is reported
to have properties akin to those of sebum.
|
|
Rosaceae
|
|
Prunus amygdalus dulcis L.= Prunus dulcis (Mill.) D.A.
Webb
|
Sweet Almond Oil
|
Much loved for generations, listed in the British Pharmacopoeia and
an excellent choice for even the most simple of the moisturizers or
massage oils. Almond oil should be in every formulators palette.
|
|
Prunus armeniaca L.
|
Apricot Kernel Oil
|
A skin conditioning agent that is emollient, non-greasy and ideal
for dry, tired and mature skins.
|
|
Prunus avium (L.) L.
|
Cherry Pit Oil
|
An oil with an interesting profile of fatty acids. It moisturizes
and protects the skin to leave it soft and smooth.
|
|
Prunus persica (L.) Batsch
|
Peach Kernel Oil
|
A skin conditioning agent that is emollient, non-greasy and ideal
for dry, tired and mature skins. Can be used as an equivalent to apricot
kernel oil.
|
|
Rosa canina L.
|
Rose Hips Oil
|
The rose of Mosqueta oil, which was once described as the Fountain
of Youth. This oil is remarkable for its benefits to damaged and
distressed skin
|
|
Rubiaceae
|
|
Coffea arabica L.
|
Coffee Oil
|
An unusual and exciting proposition for an emollient. This oil has
connotations of being reviving and stimulating.
|
|
Gardenia taitensis DC.
|
Manoi
|
The tropical paradise of Tahiti captured in one gloriously fragranced
oil which overpowers the senses with its rich floral bouquet. The
pure delight of gardenia flowers infused in skin-loving coconut oil
from Cocos nucifera.
|
|
Sapotaceae
|
|
Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels.
|
Argane Oil
|
Rich in natural sterols, this oil from Morocco is used by the local
women to keep their skin soft, smooth and protected.
|
|
Butyrospermum parkii Kotschy = Vitellaria paradoxa C.F.
Gaertn.
|
Shea Butter
|
This rich buttery oil from central Africa is used for the protection
and care of skin cracked and dehydrated by the elements. Beurre de
karate is an elegant addition to products crafted for the smoothing
and replenishment of dry skins.
|
|
Sterculiaceae
|
|
Theobroma cacao L.
|
Cocoa Butter
|
A traditional African remedy for dry skin, suitable for the most delicate
of skin types.
|
|
Theaceae
|
|
Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze
|
Camellia Oil
|
A traditional oil used in the Far East and particularly in Japan for
the protection and moisturization of the skin and hair.
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Vitaceae
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Vitis vinifera L.
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Grape Seed Oil
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A slightly green, low odor oil which is ideal as a carrier for essential
oils in massage oils and other delicate color/fragrance products.
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RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The taxonomic position of 78
plant species and the potential use of vegetable oils from these plants in
cosmetics and skin care are described in Table 1. These species belonged to 74
genera and 45 plant families and yielded 79 vegetable oils. It is interesting
to mention that Persia americana Mill. yielded both the avocado
butter and avocado oil. Family Rosaceae had highest number of vegetable oil yielding
species (five species). Most of the species were distributed in two families
(Anacardiaceae and Asteraceae) containing four species each, followed by seven
families (Boraginaceae, Brassicaceae, Clausiaceae, Cucurbitaceae, Euphorbia-ceae,
Fabaceae and Lamaceae) containing three species each of oil yielding plants.
Five families (Apiaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Malvaceae, Rubiaceae and Sapota-ceae)
have two species each of vegetable oil yielding plants. Two monocotyledonous
families Arecaceae and Poaceae contained three species each of oil yielding
plants. Remaining 28 vegetable oil yielding species were distributed in 28
plant families which included two species of gymnosperms distributed in family Cupressaceae
and Pinaceae (Table 1). The list is quite long and yet not complete as more
plants species could be explored and added to the list. Majority of the
species are annuals, however, there are quite a few perennial species that
could be utilized for oil production. Details of all the vegetable oils are
not provided here except for some of the most common ones like soybean,
linseed, walnut, sunflower and safflower (Table 2).
Table 2. Distribution of essential fatty acids found
in significant amounts in various plants.
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Essential Fatty Acids
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Plant Species
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Linoleic
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Safflower, sunflower, hempseed, soybean, walnut, pumpkin, sesame,
linseed.
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α-Linolenic
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Linseed, hempseed, canola (rapeseed), soybean, walnut, purslane, perilla.
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γ-Linolenic
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Borage, black currant seed, primerose.
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Due to their healing and
nurturing properties, vegetable oils have been extracted from various plants
for many years for use in cosmetics and body and skin care products. These
plants are ever lasting, easily available and century old tested source for
healing various skin ailments (Riechart,
2002). The vegetable oils and ground seeds need to be kept refrigerated
because they oxidize easily and become rancid (Huang and Needham, 2001). For
treating some conditions, such as rheumatoid arthritis or diabetic neuropathy,
one may try oils high in gamma linolenic acid, such as primrose oil. This free
oil is no longer to be thought of as a food, it is a medication used to treat
symptoms of a disease with both positive and negative effects.
Oils are often divided into
three categories according to their qualities, these categories are non-drying,
semi- drying and drying (Gunstone, 2002). Non-drying oils are slow to oxidize
and so remain liquid for a long time. This quality makes them particularly
useful as lubricants and as a fuel for lamps. Drying oils, on the other hand,
are quite quick to oxidize and become solid, thus they are often used in paints
and varnishes, a good example being linseed oil. Semi-drying oils have
qualities intermediate between the above two groups. Since plants synthesize
these fats they are the original and obvious source of all essential fatty
acids. If animals, such as fish, have significant amounts of essential fatty
acids in their tissues, it is because they ate plants, like algae, which
originally made the essential fatty acids. Natural oils contain combinations
of varying amounts of both w-6 and w-3 fats, as well as several saturated and
monounsaturated fats (Blackburn, 1992). Essential fatty acids are found in
significant amounts in various plants some of them are presented in Table 2.
These vegetable oils are
natural and can be used as the base for mixing ones own aromatherapy massage or
bath oil, or if preferred can be used as ready blended massage oils or bath
oils (Table 1). Carrier or base oils can be used on ones personal choice for massage,
many having particularly good properties and can be rich in vitamins and
minerals. Mostly they are used as the base to essential oils before applying
to the skin. The vegetable oils used in massage can
be hand blended to give the best quality natural oils. Grapeseed oil can be
used as the carrier in most instances as it is suitable for all types of skin
(Table 1). It is also an emollient, contains a high level of linoleic acid and
some vitamin E. Being light the oil absorbs readily, has little smell and is
less likely to cause staining of the clothes. However, it is best if possible
to ensure any massage oil is evenly applied and rubbed well in leaving 15 - 20
minutes to allow the oils to absorb fully.
Vegetable oils have heat
contents approximately 90% that of diesel fuel and are potential alternate fuel
candidates (Schwab et al., 1986). Biodiesel is a fuel derived from plant oil
or animal fat. It can be used in pure form but it is often blended with
regular diesel. The most common form is B20 - a blend of 20% biodiesel and 80%
petroleum diesel. Veggie car owners agree that biodiesel is another renewable
fuel source, but it is not as cost effective or eco-friendly as vegetable oils
are in limited supplies. Environmentalists with diesel cars have used
vegetable oil for years as an alternative fuel to cut back on sooty emissions,
but as gas prices soar above, veggie cars are a great way to save cash.
Although the Environmental Protection Agency has approved vegetable-based biodiesel,
which is also gaining in popularity, it has not approved any recycled oil for
sale. Environmental Protection Agency has concern that there could be metals,
other chemicals that, when burned, could create something was not intended to
burn. Another major obstacle deterring their use in the direct-injection
diesel engine is their inherent high viscosities which are nearly 10 times that
of diesel fuel. Solution to the viscosity problem has been approached by microemulsification,
pyrolysis, and transesterification. Microemulsification with short chain
alcohols such as methanol and ethanol yields fuels that are clear,
thermodynamically stable liquid systems with viscosities near the ASTM
specified range for number 2 diesel fuel. These micellar systems may be formulated
ionically or non-ionically. The alcohols are attractive from an economic as
well as a renewable resource viewpoint. Methanol has an economic advantage
over ethanol, and it can be derived from a large variety of base stocks. These
include biomass, municipal waste, natural gas being flared at refineries and
from coal. Pyrolysis of vegetable oils is another approach to lowering their
viscosity. Soybean and safflower oils were thermally decomposed in both air
and nitrogen to obtain fuels for the diesel engine. Using standard ASTM
distillation conditions, yields of pyrolysis products were about 75%. GS-MS
analysis of the distillates showed the presence of alkanes, alkenes, aromatics,
and carboxylic acids with carbon numbers ranging from 4 to more than 20. Fuel
properties of the thermal decomposition products were substantially improved as
evaluated by lower viscosities and higher cetane numbers compared to the unpyrrolyzed
vegetable oils. Simple esters from transesterification of vegetable oils perform
well in engine tests, and thus show good promise as an alternative or emergency
fuel for diesel engines.
Since
many compounds in oil seeds already have proven nutritional benefits, there are
great possibilities for using them to develop new functional vegetable oils (Goldberg
and Williams, 1999; Huang and Needham, 2001).
Vegetable oils containing enhanced levels of beneficial active ingredients
could have a substantial impact on human health considering the amount consumed
in most industrialized countries. In fact, in Japan this is already happening and oils are now available with
improved levels of vitamin E and phytosterols. One way to develop functional
oils is to fortify ordinary vegetable oils with additional amounts of specific
functional ingredients. This concept is similar to the fortification of white
flour, which was successfully introduced many decades ago. This route allows
the addition of precise amounts of particular beneficial components while at
the same time maintaining the original sensory qualities of the food that
consumers already know and enjoy. Another way to increase the beneficial
qualities of vegetable oils would be to develop a gentler production process so
that more of the functional ingredients naturally in the oil seeds remain in
the oil. Oils produced this way are likely to be cloudier, may have an unusual
color, or could have a stronger more characteristic taste and additional
chemical properties.
By
combining the skills and efforts of biologists, food scientists, plant breeders
and oil companies it may be possible to develop reasonably priced vegetable
oils with enhanced levels of functional ingredients. With growing trend of
using vegetable oil in food preparation and body and skin care, the health
benefits in reducing heart disease and body and skin ailment could be
substantial (Borchers et al., 2000, De Deckere and Verschuren, 2000; Goldberg
and Williams, 1999). Perhaps in the future we
will take the new nutritionally improved vegetable oils for granted - just as we
do our daily bread and olive oil today.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Special
gratitude is expressed to Dr. Joseph H. Kirkbide, USDA, Agricultural Research
Service, Beltsville, MD, for his help in checking the nomenclature and taxonomy
of the plants and Dr. M. Akmal Siddiqi, Marshfield Medical Research Foundation,
Marshfield, WI, USA for valuable suggestions and helpful criticism on the
manuscript. Authors are also grateful to Dr. Zahoor Ahmad, Pakistan
Agricultural Research Council, Islamabad, and Prof. Dr. M. Iqbal Choudhary, H.
E. J. Research Institute of Chemistry, University of Karachi, Karachi, Pakistan
for providing many original reprints that helped in the preparation of this
paper. The web site (http://www.connock.co.uk/vegetable_oils.htm) is credited
for most of the information used in this paper.
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Academic Journals
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